Thursday, July 29, 2010

Hiiragiya Ryokan - Traditional Japanese Room - Kyoto

Ken had made reservations for us to stay in a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. It wasn't until we arrived at the Kyoto train station that I had some sense into what he had planned. We rode the shinkansen from Osaka to Kyoto (a short ride when your riding a bullet).

When we arrived at the train station, we must have looked lost, because a Yoda-sized man in a robe asked if we needed help. We explained we were looking for the information center. He said to us, "I am walking information." Ken showed him the name of the hotel from the guide book; his response was, "Very expensive!" He explained any taxi driver would recognize the name of the hotel and we wouldn't have any trouble getting there. He gave us some maps, we thanked him, and after taking another look at the map, we looked up, and he was gone (it was like he had disappeared). After getting our bearings and gathering-up our luggage, we saw the Yoda-guide had found some other obviously lost foreigners, lol.

Ken booked a room at the Hiiragiya Ryokan. This two story wooden ryokan was founded in 1818 and is one of the finest ryokans in Kyoto. He also had reserved some private time in the public bath at the inn. To top everything off, we even had our own personal room attendant; she spoke little to no English, which made the experience even more interesting and authentic feeling. Enjoy the photographs.


We were in room 34.

After arriving, we were served green tea, cold tea, and a small snack. In addition, the owner personally thanked us for staying at the inn. She taught us the word for "thank-you" used in Kyoto, which is "ōkini". People in Kyoto were happily surprised when we used the word ōkini.


The flowers in our room were real and smelled wonderful.

We had our own mini garden!

What does this door go to...

ah ha, the toilet! We also were given bathroom slippers! The toilet was high tech (i.e., it would open and close on its own, had a light, seat warmer included, etc.).

Toilet control panel...

and more buttons!

Toilet instruction sheet.

Screen near our door.
The calligraphy (above) reads, "See the winter sky through the pine trees."

Nicely folded yukatas were waiting for Ken and me.




Our en suite Japanese wood bath of aromatic fir.

The bath had already been prepared and was full of hot water.

Hiiragiya Ryokan - Bath

The ryokan has "family baths" and Ken reserved some private time in one of them. The Japanese-style bath is as follows: you sit on a little wooden stool, get all lathered up, and rinse by filling up a little wooden bucket with water from a faucet that is mounted really low to the floor and then pouring the water onto yourself. After washing they have a wall mounted shower head where you rinse well before soaking in the wood bath. The wood bath smelled so good and the water was really hot.

We were in Japan during the rainy season; it was extremely hot and humid. After walking through the city and sweating A LOT (yeah, gross), the bath felt great and relaxing.




Ken in his Yukata chillin' before dinner in our sitting nook.

Our room attendant helping me with my obi.


Getting ready for dinner.

Hiiragiya Ryokan - Dinner

Hiiragiya Ryokan serves the finest Kyoto-style Japanese "kaiseki" (formal, traditional Japanese cuisine) on lacquer ware and Kyoto-crafted ceramics. Our dinner was served to us in our room by our room attendant. She provided us with a menu in English, which listed and described each of the dishes, and then the dishes started coming (the menu is based on the season's ingredients;there is no choosing). What would one of my posts be without photographs? ENJOY...

Appetizer (Sakizuke): Tofu pudding with adzuki beans, sea urchin, pea sauce, wasabi;
Sushi of horse mackerel, ginger; and
Octopus, cucumber, Japanese ginger, plum vinegar.

Sake.

Close-up of the octopus, cucumber, Japanese ginger, plum vinegar.

Simmered Dishes (Nimono-Wan): Clear-soup with paste of pike eel, oriental pickling melon, pickled ume plum, lave, yuzu citrus.

Sashimi Dishes (Mukouzuke): Sea bream, lightly grilled pike eel, scallop, taro stem, young perilla stems, gourd, Japanese white radish, Japanese ginger, wasabi.



Featured Dishes (Hassun): Grilled salmon soaked in Saikyo-miso, steamed fish paste noodles, prawn, corn, sea bream bound together with egg, steamed green soybeans and lily root, board shaped sea urchin, broad bean.

Grilled Dishes (Yakizakana): Grilled sweet fish, ginger stick, water pepper vinegar.


Poor whittle fish didn't have a chance.

Cold Dishes (Hiyashimono) - left: Summer roll-beef, onion, mibuna cress, tomato, asparagus, wasabi-tartar sauce.
Middle of Dishes (Hashiyasume) - right: Fig, sesame.

Simmered Dishes (Takiawase): Abalone, Kamo-eggplant, kidney bean, carrot, miso, kinome (young leaves of the Japanese pepper).

Deep-fried Dishes (Age-Mono): Sea bass, fu (wheat gluten), kidney bean, shiitake mushroom, dried tangle shavings sauce for dipping tempura, salt.

Soup (Tome-Wan): Aka-miso soup with yuba (skin of soybean milk), spaghetti squash, mitsuba (Japanese herb), Japanese pepper.
Rice (Gohan): Rice mixed sweet fish.
Pickles (Kou-No-Mono): Eggplant, Japanese white radish with sesame, cucumber.

Dessert (Mizu-Mono): Grape, loquat, cherry, mint jelly.

A full Ken.

Time for bed! The bedding was cleverly hidden in a closet in the room.



After making the bed, the room attendant left a covered tray in the room...

I guess it is time to make tea for Ken!!!

Our garden at night.